A container water garden can be simple yet effective way to introduce a water feature into your garden, no matter how small an outside space you may have. A healthy water feature is a real asset and enhances any garden, its light reflective surfaces for a start add an extra dimension to the surrounding space, it will probably almost immediately begin to attract local wildlife, they are a fun way to get your children involved and on a balmy summer's evening, staring into the water can be as soothing as watching a fire in winter... Start small (the blue & white ceramic container above is a perfect way to start) then plan something larger when you feel more confident.
Although container water gardens need the same combination of plants as a full sized pond (oxygenating plants + surface covering plants), its still important to choose the right ones depending on the depth of water and whether the container is going to be in the sun, shade or partial shade.
Before you start creating your 'water garden in a container', some of the key points to consider are:
1. choose your location
2. choose a container
3. determine the depth of the water
3. choose plants
Location
Decide where you are going to site the container. Will you be able to access it easily? Do you want to be able to plant around it? Will it be in the sun or shade? (Important because this affects your choice of plant). Consider using your container water garden as a focal point, or try grouping several pots together for impact on a deck, courtyard or use it to open up a previously overlooked corner.
Containers
"Any container that holds water and is resistant to frost or ice can be used to create a small or 'miniature' water garden." You could try repurposing an old zinc water tank or use old galvanised tubs to add some vintage charm – you can usually find them at a salvage yard or keep an eye out a car boot sale, or use an old stone urn or even half a barrel. For something a little more contemporary try a terracotta or fibreglass pot (good for cold weather). Choose a container that will work well in its surroundings, for style ideas and inspiration visit our Pinterest boards.
You may need to seal it with a patch of pond liner and a waterproof adhesive (to cover cracks and any drainage holes) available from most good garden nurseries. And if you choose an unglazed earthenware or terractotta pot, line that too otherwise water will eventually seep through the porous sides.
If space is small but you'd still like to add moving water, consider a 'disappearing' water feature – water falls onto stones, trickles down, and is collected and pumped straight back up.
Photo: Pam Penick via Pinterest best plants for a water garden
Depth of water
Measure the deepest point of water, the container should be at least 35cm deep with an 80cm diameter. If you're going for something even smaller, then really consider the plants you are going to use and be very selective, eg. a Nymphaea Candida lily is good for shallow water and has only small and compact growth. An 80cm diameter is about the minimum if you are in a particularly cold part of the country, for example the Scottish Highlands – the waterlily will not survive if the water in the container freezes solid for any length of time. For more advice on container ponds in winter see the advice on the Waterside Nursery website.
Myriophyllum spicatum. Photo: Courtesy Pinterest best plants for a water garden
Choose plants
The fun bit. It's important not to overcrowd the container – keep at least one third of the water clear. Not only for aesthetic reasons, you also need to give your plants space to breathe and grow. These small 'ponds' don't need a pump or a filter so they are relatively quick to set up.
Linda Smith, acquatic plant specialist and owner of The Waterside Nursery recommends some of the best aquatic plants to use in a container water garden below and we've added a few of our own. For more images and inspiration, visit our Pinterest board on plants for water gardens...
Oxygenating plants, essential in the war against algae, are the most beneficial plants in a well balanced pond of any size. They should be added at a rate of five bundles per square metre of water surface (you obviously won't need much in a container). For more detailed advice, see the easy to understand advice sheet 'Troubleshooting in the Garden' by Garden Organic.
Nymphaea ‘Pygmaea Helvola’
This miniature water lily will grow from the base of the container. The leaves provide some cover on the surface, which helps the temperature to remain constant, but the plant won’t spread wider than 30cm (12in), with each flower and leaf being just 2.5cm (1in) in size. Given a sunny position it will flower from June to September, each flower lasting 2-3 days. Plant with 15cm (6in) of water above the crown.
Nymphaea Candida, a lily which is good for shallow water, it has small and compact growth. The lilies have plain green leaves and cup-shaped flowers that are pure white – great in a vintage zinc bath tub
Houttuynia cordata ‘Chameleon’
The foliage is more striking from spring to autumn than the small summer flowers.
It can be fast-growing, but helps to control green algae. Lift the basket from the water to trim back if necessary.
Primula florindae
The scent of this giant cowslip attracts pollinating insects such as bees and hover-flies. It flowers later in summer than the smaller cowslip, and has a continuation of drooping yellow flowers appearing over a long period.
Veronica beccabunga
This pretty British native bears delicate blue flowers from May to July / September. The leaves offer shade and shelter for any amphibians that climb in and will trail over the pot edge, softening the look. Plants will look best if plants are renewed from cuttings every year (cuttings should be taken from new, leggy stems): trim back surplus stem growth and pot up rooted stem pieces in aquatic compost to make a fresh plant for another pot.
Myriophyllum spicatum
Spiked milfoil is a British native. Submerge a portion of this plant beneath the surface (out of view) to oxygenate the water.
Mentha cervina (or water spearmint)
This member of the mint family is a thin-leaved, clump-forming plant that’s more suited to a container than the larger native, Mentha aquatica. Trim back the stems in autumn and it will shoot again next spring. Wildlife pollinators will love the flowers.
Iris versicolor
The iris will be the first plant to flower in a container water garden, usually in May. Cut back the tall leaves in autumn so they don’t fall into the water and decay over winter, reducing the water quality.
Plants such as hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum) or the water violet (Hottonia palustris) keep the pond clean because they feed off the dissolved mineral salts on which algae thrive.
For advice on how to plant within the container, possibly using an aquatic basket, click through the links at the end of this post.
For planting that is bold and simple, Linda Smith suggests:
Equisetum hyemale
The strong, tall stems with showy black bar markings reach up to 120cm high. "This plant can remain untrimmed throughout winter and will only need minor attention in spring."
Plants you should not use in any pond
One plant you should avoid in any size garden pond is Elodea
canadesis, (Canadian Pondweed, sometimes referred to as Elodea crispa, see photo below).
It tends to completely take over a garden pond and can be very hard to
remove – take it from someone who has the backache to prove it!
It
is not a native and is too rampant for most garden ponds. (Lagarosiphon
major, Goldfish Weed or Pondweed is a good native oxygenator that is
often sold under the incorrect name of Elodea crispa, so double check
before you buy.) For more information on clearing ponds of Algae and
what to look for, see the Troubleshooting leaflet, link at end of post.
Before planting your container
If you have filled your pond with tap water leave it for a week before planting to allow time for any chlorine to evaporate.
No need to change the water
The Waterside Nursery recommends that you avoid changing the water in a container water garden as this means you will be refilling with fresh water when the water already in your container has gone through a maturing process. However, you should check your container pond in Autumn and cut back any dying foliage and remove falling tree leaves (just as you would with a traditional garden pond) – siting it so its not directly sitting under foliage will obviously help.
If the water turns green or grows algae or blanketweed Linda Smith recommends adding 'Extract of Barleystraw' on a weekly basis to your container (Barley straw encourages the proliferation of microscopic organisms – protozoa - which feed on algae. "It can be loosely packed in an old onion net, a stocking or even chopped up and strewn on the surface of the pond (roughly 5g / m² of surface area)."
Propagate and feed the plants in Spring if necessary then keep the water level topped up preferably from the water butt in summer (not from the tap unless it's been dechlorinated first).
To add fish or not
Adding fish to a small container water garden may not be an option. While fish add fascination and colour to a pool – if they are to thrive there must be well-oxygenated, clear water, a good variety of depths, shelter, shade and a supply of food. Which may be a struggle if your container is only 80cm in diameter! Seek further advice before introducing any fish into your small 'pond'.
I've just given a quick overview here because there are some great information resources out there and have listed a few links below where you can find more detailed information or you are welcome to email me at clauda@claudiadeyongdesigns.com with any queries if you are dipping your toe into creating a 'water garden' for the first time.
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A couple of quick info sources and for further reading:
A good read for beginners and easily digestible are Monty Don's recent articles in the Daily Mail: Monty Dons water gardens and Monty Don's formal water garden and Monty's Small is Beautiful container ponds.
The Waterside Nursry: This website is packed full of information for anyone starting out with a garden feature for the first time, simply described, and will answer most questions not answered here.
'Troubleshooting in the Garden Pond' good for problem solving. Print out and keep it to hand.
Best plants for a water garden photos and information on Pinterest.
How much beauty in one post! Great photos :)))When I was growing up, my grandmother had a big iron cauldron (don't recall where she found it) sitting in the middle of her garden. It was about the size of the pot shown above, full of goldfish, elodea, water lilies, and whatever else found its way in there.It was lovely and low-maintenance, and it was all sorts of fun for us kids, too. I think I'll keep my eye out for just the right vessel..
Posted by: Raya Shaw | Thursday, 10 September 2015 at 14:44
WOW !! What a garden blog and wonderful shared to tips & ideas about to water garden, thanks author for rocking tropic
Posted by: Galvanised tank | Sunday, 17 November 2013 at 18:50
I like the idea of having a water feature that actually has some life to it. Fountains and ponds are often very sterile, because they are just slate or pebbles. Whereas these container gardens are bursting with life. I especially like the lilly in the water pot.
Posted by: Wonderlawn | Friday, 23 August 2013 at 11:28